If you are wondering what to eat in Lisbon, start with a warm pastel de nata, then work through salt cod, a bifana pork sandwich, grilled sardines if you visit in June, and a tiny glass of ginjinha cherry liqueur. That short list covers the flavours locals grew up on, and you can taste every one of them in a single long weekend.
The city’s own tourism board, Visit Lisboa, puts it neatly: salted cod is the king of the table and the sardine is the queen. Everything else, from garlicky clams to a bica espresso at the counter, fits around those two.
Below you will find the dishes worth ordering, then six verified places to eat them, grouped by neighbourhood so you can plan your days around your appetite.
Key takeaways
- Pastel de nata is best eaten warm, dusted with cinnamon, and ideally in pairs.
- Bacalhau (salted cod) turns up in countless forms, from salads with chickpeas to baked dishes.
- Grilled sardines are everywhere during the Lisbon festivities in June.
- Pastéis de Belém has been baking custard tarts in Belém since 1837.
- Time Out Market Lisboa and Mercado de Campo de Ourique let you sample widely under one roof.
The dishes to put on your list
Lisbon’s food is built on the sea, the pig and the bakery. Portions are generous, flavours are direct, and the best versions are often in the least fancy rooms.
Pastel de nata
The custard tart is the city’s calling card: flaky, crisp pastry around a rich egg custard that caramelises on top in a very hot oven. Visit Lisboa says it is best served hot, with powdered cinnamon, and preferably in pairs. Take that last part seriously.
Bacalhau
Portugal has a long love affair with dried, salted cod, and Lisbon menus show it off in dozens of ways. Look for salt cod with chickpeas, a simple and satisfying plate that Visit Lisboa singles out, or bacalhau à Brás, shredded cod tossed with thin fried potatoes and soft scrambled egg.
Grilled sardines
Sardines are a seasonal pleasure rather than a year-round staple. They peak in popularity during the Lisbon festivities in June, when street grills smoke on every corner and the fish is eaten simply, often on a slice of bread that soaks up the juices.
Bifana
The bifana is Lisbon’s everyday lunch: thin slices of pork, simmered in a garlicky, wine-spiked sauce and stuffed into a soft roll. Add a squeeze of mustard, eat it standing at the counter, and you are doing it properly.
Seafood and petiscos
Clams in garlic and coriander, prawns, and goose barnacles are classic orders at a cervejaria, the Lisbon beer hall that doubles as a seafood house. Visit Lisboa also flags fried cuttlefish from Setúbal, just across the river, as a dish worth seeking out.
Ginjinha and a bica
Ginjinha is a sour cherry liqueur served in small glasses, sometimes with a cherry in it and sometimes without. For your caffeine, order a bica, which is what Lisboetas call an espresso.
Where to eat: six verified spots by neighbourhood
Every place below was confirmed open through its own website or an official listing at the time of writing. Opening hours change, so check before you set out.
Pastéis de Belém, Belém
The most famous custard tarts in Lisbon come from Pastéis de Belém at Rua de Belém 84–92. The bakery has made its tarts since 1837, following an old recipe from the nearby Mosteiro dos Jerónimos, and the recipe is still made by hand and kept secret. It opens every day, and the tarts are worth the tram ride west.
Manteigaria, Chiado
Manteigaria makes one thing only: pastel de nata, served warm from the oven with a crackly shell. Its Chiado shop is the classic stop, and it has branches across the city, including Rossio, Belém and Campo de Ourique, so a fresh tart is never far away.
Time Out Market Lisboa, Cais do Sodré
Set inside the historic Mercado da Ribeira on Avenida 24 de Julho, Time Out Market Lisboa opened in 2014 and now holds 26 restaurants, 8 bars and a dozen shops. It is the easiest way to taste a lot of Lisbon in one sitting, and Visit Lisboa lists it among the city’s food and events venues. Go at an off-peak hour if you want a seat.
Mercado de Campo de Ourique, Campo de Ourique
For something more neighbourly, head to the Campo de Ourique market at Rua Coelho da Rocha 104. It opened in 1934 and was remodelled in 2013, and it still sells the day’s fish, meat and vegetables alongside food stalls that cook with those same ingredients. It is a good place to see how residents actually shop.
A Ginjinha Espinheira, Largo de São Domingos
This tiny bar at Largo de São Domingos 8 is a classic place to try ginjinha. It is listed in Portugal’s Comércio com História register of historic shops, and the family business traces its roots to 1840 and is now in its fifth generation. Expect to be asked the eternal question: with a cherry or without?
Cervejaria Ramiro, Intendente
Cervejaria Ramiro on Avenida Almirante Reis has been serving seafood since the 1950s. The World’s 50 Best Discovery guide calls it arguably the best seafood in Lisbon and points to its goose barnacles and garlic clams. The restaurant opens Tuesday to Sunday, according to its website.
In Lisbon, the best meals rarely need a reservation. They need an appetite, a counter to lean on and a little patience in the queue.
Dishes and where to find them
| Dish or drink | What it is | Where to try it |
|---|---|---|
| Pastel de nata | Custard tart in crisp pastry | Pastéis de Belém (Belém), Manteigaria (Chiado) |
| Bacalhau | Salted cod, cooked many ways | Traditional tascas; stalls at Time Out Market |
| Grilled sardines | Charcoal-grilled whole sardines | Street grills during the June festivities |
| Seafood | Clams, prawns, goose barnacles | Cervejaria Ramiro (Intendente) |
| Market grazing | Many small plates in one place | Time Out Market (Cais do Sodré), Mercado de Campo de Ourique |
| Ginjinha | Sour cherry liqueur | A Ginjinha Espinheira (Largo de São Domingos) |
How to eat well in Lisbon
- Stand at the counter. Many cafés and snack bars serve bifanas and coffee fastest at the bar.
- Eat custard tarts warm. A nata straight from the oven is a different pastry from one that has sat for an hour.
- Plan around June if sardines are your priority, since that is when the city grills them everywhere.
- Visit markets in the morning to see the produce and fish stalls in full swing.
- If you are staying longer, browse our Portuguese cooking ideas to recreate a few favourites at home.
FAQ
What is the most famous food in Lisbon?
The pastel de nata is the best-known, with salted cod (bacalhau) close behind. Visit Lisboa calls bacalhau the king of Lisbon’s table and the sardine the queen.
When is sardine season in Lisbon?
Sardines are most associated with the Lisbon festivities in June, when grilled sardines are sold across the city. Outside that period they are less of a fixture on menus.
Where can I try pastel de nata in Lisbon?
Pastéis de Belém in Belém has made its tarts since 1837 and opens daily. Manteigaria is a popular alternative, with a shop in Chiado and branches around the city.
What is ginjinha?
Ginjinha is a sour cherry liqueur served in small glasses. A Ginjinha Espinheira on Largo de São Domingos is one of the best-known places to try it and will ask whether you want it with a cherry.
Plan your first Lisbon food day
Start with a warm nata and a bica in Belém, lunch on small plates at Time Out Market, and finish with seafood at Ramiro and a ginjinha nightcap. For more trip ideas, browse our food travel guides, read our tips for eating like a local before you fly, and check our restaurant directory for places closer to home.
Featured photo: Pastel de Nata ‘custard tart’ – Latina 2023-12-18 by Andy Li, CC0 1.0.
